Method of manufacturing shoes



Feb. 21, 1928.

zEZIINI ENTOR.

v. PESSEMIER METHOD OF MANUFACTURING SHOES Vi'clor fea'a'em Filed 26, 1927 ,F .1.

ATTORNEY.

Patented Feb. 21, 1928. V v -U'NI'TED HSTAVITES' PATENT OFFICE, w

VICTOR rEssEmER} or 'rncomeQwAsnmeron,

This invention relates] to V a method of manufacturing shoes, designed primarily for use in connection with the well known type' of McKay stitching machines, butit is to be understood that a method, in accordance with-this invention, can be employed in connection with any form of shoe stitching ma I referred 'to whereby the: rear portion of the inner sole, outer sole and upper and the forward portion of the outer sole and upper are stitched together from within the interior of an upper after ,being lasted and with the last removed, and further with the fore part or portion of the upper maintained in extended, lasted or shaped position during the stitching of the fore outer sole together,

Further objects of the invention are to provide, in a manner as hereinafter set forth,

a" method for manufacturing shoes and which eliminates the fore part of the inner sole of the shoe, thereby givingthe shoe the flexibility of, a hand, turn at the front and the stamina, rigidity and high arch support at the rear, as is obtainable more particular ly inthe McKay method orprocess of manufacturing shoes.

A further object'of the invention is to provide, in a manner as hereinafter set forth, a method of manufacturing shoes which provides for a shoe with an unusually satisfactory smooth inside soleon which the foot rests, eliminates tacks which are employed in the McKay process or method, and further eliminates heavy rough seams inside of the completed shoes which are present in the hand turned production of shoes.

Further objects of the invention are to provide, in a manner as hereinafter set forth, a method of manufacturing shoes which .is

simple in its use, thoroughly efficient, conveniently carried out, and comparatively inexpensive to employ.

With the foregoing and other objects inv view, the invention consists of the novel combination and arrangement of steps hereinafter more specifically described in carrying out the method, but it is to be understood that changes, variations and modifications with respect to the steps of the method can be resorted to which fall within the scope of the claim hereunto appended.

part-of the upper and 7 Israel) or irannracrvmne snonsl A pncahon's ea January 26, 1 921; srial n issaer,

vention. v

' Figure 1 is a perspective ,view of a last having mounted upon the fore part thereof ajshape retaining shell employed. in the method. 'f i Q Figure! 2 is an inverted plan o'f a last havmg mounted thereon or rather lasted thereon' an upper indicated indotted lines and further having mounted thereon'a shape re taining shell and an inner sole. I Figure '3 is an inverted plan-view of a last having secured thereon an upper, a shape retaining shell, an inner sole and an outer sole" and with the latter detachably secured to thelas't. I

a Figure 4 is asection on line Figure 3. Figure 5 is a transverse sectional view of the completed fore part of the shoe; Figure'ti is a section on line 66Figure 3. Referringtolthe drawings-in detail 1 denotesa lastprefe'rably of the ordinary Mc- Kay type and which has connected to the fore part or front portion thereof a shell'2 .of rigidimaterial; The shell 2 conforms to further is inturned throughout its bottom to form a gripping flange 3 of appropriate width. The material from which the shell 2 is constructed is of the desired thickness. The shell 2 completely encloses the top, sides and toe portion of the last lat the front portion of the latter.

An inner sole is indicated at 4 and the v fore part 5 thereof has its edge throughout inset with respect to the sides and toe at the front portion ofthe last 1. The inset edge of the fore part 5, of the inner sole 4, is indicated at 6 and which provides a pair of shoulders 7. When the shell 2 is mounted in position the ends of the flange 3 abut against the shoulders 7. The rear part of the inner sole 4 is indicated at 8 and which is flush with the sides and heel of the last 1. The inner sole 4 is detachably secured to the bottom of the last 1 in a known manner.

attaching the upper 9 in lasted position are indicated at 10. The staples or tacks do not extend through the fl'a'ng e 3 of the 'shell'2,

but are spaced inwardly withrespeotthereto. The flange 3 is spaced from theedge The outer sole is indicatedflat 11 ,and s portions 13 of theupper 9.

and which encloses the inturned attached After the elements of the shoe,th at is to say the inner sole 4, upper '9 and outer sole 11 are positioned in a manner as aforesaid, thelast ispulled out, leaving the shell 2in the ,forepart of the shoe thereby retaining its; shape. In order that the shell Will re-.

main in its exact position, the flange 3 thereof abuts, against the shoulders 7 .After'the last has b een removed, the arm or horn 0f: the oMel iay stitcher is inserted. Within the upper andthe inner sole, upper and outer sole are stitched together asat 15, ithin the. varea des gnated A, B and C.v After the innervsole, upper and outer soles are secured together, at hatmay beterined the rear part thereof, the upper and outer sole, from Within the upper, are stitched together, as

at 16, within theqarea designated D, and F, orfl in-otherfvvordsthefore part of the upper and outer sole are stitched together from ithin the upper and such stitching is guided bythe inset edge 6 of the fore part of the inner sole 4 "When the fore part of the outer sole and upper are secured together, the stitching is free of the flange 3. After the fore part of the outer sole and upper are stitched together, the shell 2 is then removed, the fore part5 of the inner sole cut off at the point designated X, the

is disconnected from said {fore part 7 part of a completed shoe, the outer sole is rabbeted as at 'l to make a flush edge With the stitchedupper. detachably secured, as'at'12,to the inner sole """It "s hought the many advantages of a method of manufacturing shoes, in aceordance with this invention, can be readily" un; derstood, and although 'the'preferredfein-f bodiment of the invention is as illustrated and referred to, yet itis tolb'ef understood that changes, variations andfinojdificat'ionsfl of the steps of the method can behad which will fall Within the scope of theinvention;

as claimed.

' A m ethod of In aiiu faotu'ring[shoes] coil}. prising detachahly securing to the bottom of a last of an inner sole having the edge ofth'e fore part thereof inset 'vvith respectfjto the edge of the rear part thereof, removably p0 sitioning a shape retainer throughout the fore part of the last and with the edge v-there of opposing said inset edge throughout, last;

ing an upper in position, detachalil'y seour-iing aii'outer sole'to the inner sole'and against vIoToR1312ssEMiEBav 

